Monday 8 July 2013

Dinner, Masala Chaat, Nakasero, Kampala



A little while ago one of my friends from Backpackers went away for a couple of weeks for a research project in the forests near Kabale, a small town in South Western Uganda no too far from the border with Rwanda and DR Congo. It’s also the end of the tarmac road if you’re heading to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest NP to see the Gorillas. I’ll get to them at some point, but the permit is expensive. It’s $500 for a one day permit, and if you’re lucky enough to see a pack, herd, gaggle, pod, whatever of Gorillas you get one hour maximum with them. In May and October it’s only $350 as it’s wetter.


After two weeks in Kabale and nearby districts, Olly was back in Kampala and we’d arranged to meet up on Wednesday evening to catch up and have something to eat. I’d heard some good things about a South Indian place downtown near Parliament and opposite the National Theatre, so we decided to give it a go.

I was late on account of having to put the last episode of Game of Thrones on a USB stick for Olly. After the excitement of the penultimate episode of the series he’d yet to see how it was resolved or not. Anyway, it didn’t take long to get there only about 10 to 15 minutes as there wasn’t much traffic.


It was dead, we were the only ones there, and it was hot. The ceiling fans were trying their hardest but in vain. Interestingly if you’re in Kampala and you want to get your Bollywood, sorry Tamil movie fix, this is the place to go as they have thousands of DVDs for sale. Apparently the place has been going for donkey’s years, so the owners must either have somehow managed to stick around or were one of the first Indians to move back to Uganda after Amin’s regime forced them out of the country.

Anyway on to the food and Olly went for a Paneer Masala and some (tiny) Chapatis. I being the greedy sod that I am went for the South Indian Mini Thali. It wasn’t mini. Whilst we were waiting for our food we were brought the staple of poppadums sprinkled with red onion and accompanied by various chutneys and pickles. A nice familiar appetiser. Another respectable amount of time later our food arrived. My Thali came on a large metal platter similar in size to the one that I had at Fasika, the excellent Ethiopian place in Kabalagala.
Picture representative of my Thali
Unfortunately I didn’t make a note of the menu so will undoubtedly have missed something off the list of what I had to eat. There was rice, pretty standard. A potato based dish a la Bombay Potatoes, a lentil based dish a la Tarka Daal, a couple of other sauce heavy veggie curry dishes, an Uttapam, which is kind of like a pizza, but not quite, and a couple of Idli, a savoury lentil and rice ‘cake’. This was all topped off with a massive plain Dosa (12 inches long) and its accompaniments of the traditional hot chutney and sambhar vegetable dips. A dosa is a fermented crepe / pancake again of lentils and rice. You can get all sorts of dosas at Masala Chaat and I’d be very tempted to try one next time I'm in the area.

South Indian pizza
Overall the food was excellent, there wasn’t anything I disliked, the idli were probably the lowest point, but as a sauce carrier they were excellent. Overall 4 out of 5, and a bargain at 18000 UGX (£4.50).

Afterwards we headed up the road by shared boda to Mish Mash as Olly was supposed to be meeting some people there, it was on my way and I was told that they were showing The Untouchables. Since I hadn’t seen it in years and fancied a bit of old school Connery badassery I came along. The friends weren’t there, and the movie was Intouchables which I have to see at some point, but the bottom row of subtitles were cut off on the outdoor screen. On the plus side it took less than 10 minutes to head home by boda.

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