I decided on the Arc'teryx Spear 25l daypack in Black,
with a wonderful hi-viz orange interior, fleece lined pocket in the
"lid" compartment for phones and small 7" tablets, flared bottom
section for increased airflow over the back and numerous other over-engineered
features for my use. I waited far too long at the till and after thankfully
answering the annoying Ellis Brigham "Did anyone help you with this
purchase?" question with a resounding "No", I ventured round the
corner to the above location through the 'you need to know that it's there'
style entrance of the Jubilee Market Hall to the South of Covent Garden.
Annoyingly I got behind a slow moving couple on an early
date on the way in and up the stairs. They were clearly new to the culinary
delights that they were about to experience. Despite this early set-back I was
able to quickly get to the order station as they vainly tried to find a table
to themselves at this fast-food variant of the successful MEAT empire. Menu
choices are fashionably limited, so I tried the Double Bubble burger for a
change from either the superb Black Palace or Dead Hippie options. To accompany
this I went for the always excellent Poppaz and a refillable soft drink a la
Nandos rather than any of the alcoholic options, including milkshakes, on
offer.
MEATmarket was the busiest I'd seen it, probably due to
the rampant success of MEATliquor, had to share a table with seats for 10 and
space for 6 with one other chap at the opposite corner. Ambiance is a
retro-American diner, pseudo-ironic style that I believe is popular with the
denizens of Hoxton and Shoreditch. I believe could be described as
'Hipster-esque'. I, like all good hipsters, prefer to hark back to an earlier
era when this type of sub-culture was exemplified in the 'TV Go Home' listings
as the late night recurring fly-on-the-wall documentary series entitled
"C**t" (The censorship is mine), and eventually the actual series
'Nathan Barley'. To illustrate I was later to joined by two ridiculously young
girls opposite me and was entertained by one of the party's tales of her
tribulations as an unpaid intern in a Soho production company and her ability
to secure a position working on a documentary to be potentially aired on one of
the Discovery Channels on the 'Mysteries of the Universe'. Her most pressing
issue is currently on coming up with ideas on how to visualise the Big Bang. I
had a few suggestions, but decided to keep them to myself as my name was
announced over the PA system indicating that my food order was now ready for
collection at the stainless steel counter.
Poppaz, a mixture of cheese and cut up Jalapeno peppers
in Panko breadcrumbs with a Ranch (not Blue Cheese) dressing, where the worst I
have experienced there, but still amazing. It's a shame that this menu option
is not at MEATliquor as a combination of Poppaz and the Deep Fried Pickles with
Blue Cheese dressing would be a match made in Heaven. I do enjoy some quality
French Fries, but would happily forego them for either of these two side
orders.
On to the MEAT of the review. The Double Bubble was
superb, the two meat patties are exemplary and cooked to medium-rare perfection.
I normally shy away from burgers on the rare side, but the quality of the quite
thin patty mince recipe would be ruined with a medium, I believe the fat
content is on the lower end of the 25% - 30% ratio that is in vogue currently.
This is a vanilla double cheese burger with minced white onions, sliced
gherkins, Heinz tomato ketchup and French's yellow mustard. Hugely enjoyable,
but a repeat visit would bring me back to either the Dead Hippie's take on Big
Mac sauce or the Black Palace's substitution on minced raw onions for grilled
onions. The bun I feel isn't up to Tommi's standards mentioned below, but is a
great compliment. Unseeded, slightly sweet, reminiscent of a quality Maccy D's
hamburger or cheeseburger bun, it doesn't shine as much as some of the
sourdough and Brioche buns available at other establishments. The bottom half
can struggle structurally with the amazing juices and other moister elements of
the burger, resulting in an 'inverted' eating style occasionally being more
appropriate.
All in all this was still a 4 out of 5 experience and
well worth a small diversion if in need of a quick no-frills dining experience
in the vicinity of Covent Garden and a good escape from the throngs of tourists
loitering outside the nearby TGIFs and their ilk of dull consumer fodder.
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